The metal embroidery of Rajasthan is known as Gota work. The embroiderers of Jaipur, Bikaner, Ajmer, Udaipur and Kota are world famous for their uniquely styled Gota work. Gota is a band of gold or silver ribbon of that varies with width, woven in a satin weave. The gold embroidery of Jaipur, known as gota-work, is intricate. In Real Gota, Silver & Gold metals are used. But in routine, the base metal is copper, coated by Silver etc. Now the copper has been replaced by Polyester film which is metalized & coated as per requirements. This has resulted in better quality at lower cost. This Plastic Gota (as it is popularly known) has good resistance to moisture & does not tarnish as compared to metal-based Gota.
The raw material comprised of a yarn of silver polished with gold and passed under 10 Calendars to make into fine strand called "Kasab" and further drawn under a calendar to give it a flattened effect known as "Badla". In recent years pure yarns are replaced by synthetic yarns.Various types of gotta are Sikhiya gotta, Chaumasa, Panchmasa, Athmasa, Lappa, Thappa, Gokhru, Lehru Gotta, Nakshi, Bijbel, Bijiya, Chiru, Kiran, Chatai and Chip gotta.
The work was previously done on pure Georgette, Chiffon, Velvet & Silk whereas as in recent years synthetic fabrics are used for the production. The colors commonly used were Red, Orange, Pink, magenta, Maroon & Yellow which are nowadays available in all possible shades as per the customer demand.
The Base fabric is tied on four sides with thick cords and is attached to a wooden frame known as Khaat. For tracing design the tracing paper is placed on the Fabric. White paste made of safeda or chalk powder is spread over it. The Design will appear on the fabric. According to the outlines of the design Gotta is cut and folded into different shapes or it may be stitched in a simple line. To create different designs Gotta is cut and folded and is attached in various geometrical or in figured form with Hemming and Back stitch on the fabric.
Gota is woven on looms. It consists of cotton in warp and a metal in weft. Attractive designs consisting of flowers, leaves and decorative motifs could also be made on gota by pressing it under blocks. Each pattern and motif had its own distinguishing name. Small pieces of gota were cut and patched over the textile with the help of thread and needle to create designs in applique. In Jaipuri dialect, this is known as chatapati work. Gota has maintained its popularity even today among the women, the only difference being that the hand-operated loom on which it was formerly made is now power-driven.
Gota is available in different width. With it different types of items are made like Champa, Beejia, Phool, Patti, Gohkroo etc. (Defined in Glossary). Now- a-days different shapes in different sizes are cut out of the Gota-Strip, manually or by dies. And using these and other materials like Dori, Sitara, Kundan etc., artistic works are created by Rajasthani artisans. There is no better choice than ‘Gota Work’ when rich & heavy look is desired in light weight. It is also low cost & durabel. Small pieces of zari ribbon are applied onto the fabric with the edges sewn down to create elaborate patterns. Lengths of wide, golden ribbons are similarly stitched on the edges of the fabric to create an effect of gold zari work.
The Gota method is commonly used for women's formal costumes. Khandela in Shekhawati is best known for its manufacture. Kinari or edging refers to the art of fringed border decoration. It is usually practised by the Muslim craftsm, Gota work is a form of fabric ornamentation that was probably originated in Rajasthan.
It is also known as gota-kinari work and lappe-ka-kaam. These `Gota` and `Kinari` are golden and silver coloured pieces and laces those are sewn on the cloth. The Muslim craftsman generally prepares these.
On the bases on its width, Gota work or Lappe ka kaam can be found under different names like chaumasiya and athmasiya. The work is done on the fabric with the appliqué technique. With hemming or simple running stitch the Gotta is attached in stylish design flow from the artisan`s fingers on to the garment. The popular design elements like flowers, leaves, stylized mango motifs and heart shapes are usually worked on various kinds of odhna and ghaghras. Checkerboard patterns are also quite a favorite. Animal figures, like the parrot, peacock and elephant are some of the folk motifs. To get a variation, floral designs are cut from Gota is embroidered on to the cloth with the help of a string.
Gota can be cut into small pieces and folded in the shape of leaves.They are also twisted and stitched on the cloth in the form of continuous triangles on the border. This work is mostly done is Jaipur in remote villages by local people called khandani karigars as inherited art.
In Gota work however contrasting colors like pink and green or pink and red are mostly in the background with patch work to highlight the work.
Some sections of the pattern are filled with colored satin, thus resulting in a rich design that resembles the enameled jewellery of the region. Men and women of all communities wear garments of Gota work or Lappe ka kaam, as it is auspicious and indispensable during ceremonial occasions. The work is mainly done on the costumes for women. Khandela in Shekhawati mainly prepares these items.
Married women wear the Gota ornamented attire in religious, social and festive occasion’s men, and children also dress sometimes in their finest clothes that are often ornamented with Gota work. Gota lacing is generally done on odhni and turban edges. Printed or embroidered ghaghras are also trimmed with gota. Traditional articles like Kurti, kaanchli, Sari, Lehanga, Poshaak,Dress for idols are adorned with Gota work.Contemporary articles included Kurtis, Salwar suits and saris,decorative panels and cushion covers are also in fashion.
This style of embroidery starts with the Mugals and spreaded to the courts of various states like Rajasthan where Jaipur and Jodhpur."